The Great Glen Way

We are back from our 7th Long Ways hike! And this time we come full circle to where we began in 2019... Scotland! One of our favorite hiking destinations, not only because of the amazing scenery, but also the fact that the Scottish are fantastic hosts!

We actually started this trail in 2019 when, for the first time, our trio hiked the West Highland Way. In this episode we compare the two trails, our experiences along the GGW (spoiler... it was amazing), and of course, the big questions... how was the beer and did you see Nessie?

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Transcript

Hello, everyone. Welcome to the Longways podcast. I'm Devin Windelspecht. And I'm Mike Windelspecht. Hey.
Eric Weber here. And we are back again from the trail. This is our seventh trail that we've hiked. Um, and we are back to talk to you guys about the Great Glen Way, um, up in the Highlands of Scotland. So we got back from this maybe, um, three weeks ago, I'd say, um, three or four weeks ago.
And, uh, this is our second time in Scotland, uh, hiking this trail. Um, our first time was actually, uh, the first time that Eric was on the trail with us about, uh, seven years ago. This was the West Highland Way. We had hiked the West Highland Way from Glasgow up to Fort William, um, that being our second trail overall. And it really, uh, became the start of our kind of hiking trio.
So we kind of came full circle and we decided to kind of hike the second kind of half this trail. They're two separate trails, but we wanted to hike the second half of this trail, um
, and see kind of like the more northern parts of Scotland. Um, and it was a really good trail. We're gonna kind of dive into it a little bit more. Um, but I guess I wanna start with, um, any first thoughts from, um, of the trail from either you, dad, or or Eric. Well, I'm I'm ready to go back now.
It was probably one of my favorite trails that we've had so far. Uh, it was not what I expected in the way of…uh, it was not as rugged as I expected. It was a really well maintained trail. Uh, it was absolutely beautiful and probably my favorite, uh, trail in Scotland so far. So I'm ready to go back right now…
Yeah. I'd I'd second that. I think my very, you know, first and overall impression was that this was a beautiful trail. Um, it is uniquely different, I think, from West Highland in in the fact that, um, it is a little bit more well groomed. It's a little less…populated by other folks.
Um, but also, um, being more well groomed, um, there's a lot more bikes on this particular side of the trail. So those are my three standout things that sort of pop up to me at first impression. Yeah. I mean, I think to talk about kind of the trail itself, a lot of our trails in the past, you know, there's kind of been like a a defining feature of them. You know, they could be coastal trails, coastal walks like Portugal and Turkey.
Uh, they could be mountain walks like Slovenia. Um, this one was a bit more of a lake walk, um, a lock walk, um, And it's really cool structure of this trail. So you're following this thing called the, uh
, the Caledonian Canal, which goes all the way from the south of Fort William, um, all the way north to this, um, northern city called Iverness. And this canal, it kind of follows this great fault line, uh, right in the middle of, um…of Scotland where on the left hand side I might get this wrong, left and right, but I think the left hand side is, um, the rocks are closer to, uh, North American rocks in Greenland and Appalachia, and the right hand side are more closer to Europe. And so you have this huge fault line right in the middle where these big locks have formed, these big valleys. Um, and a long time ago, uh, in the eighteen hundreds or so, they formed this huge canal to kind of link Inverness way at the top of Fort William in the south and went through all these locks. So…we get the opportunity kind of on this trail to kind of hike along that route, that kind of that massive glen, the Great Glen being the name.
Um
, I think it still goes about eighty to ninety miles this time, about eight days, um, with our usual rest day in between…
And, yeah, I mean, I think this one for me was one of the, uh, there's a lot of history on this trail. Um, it was probably one of our not one of our most challenging trails, but it definitely was, um, really, really pretty…
And I think it is something that is kind of slept on compared to the much, much more…
uh, the much more…popular West Highland Way or much more internationally well known, I'd say, West Highland Way. So, I mean, I think…um, to to start, you know, what are some what are some highlights and lowlights of the trail? And that will start with you…
Well, I really think it was it was really diff two different parts of this trail. There was the first part along the Caledonia Canal, and that was really kind of interesting because you were really following this historical waterway, you know, and going through the little the little mini locks connecting the locks. Right? Because we have locks of locks. And, uh, you know, the little towns associated with it.
Um, and then right around Fort Augustus, you really started to get up into what I was considering more the Highlands at, uh, taking those routes up and up and around Loch Ness. And that was really very interesting. Um, those views, although we were dodging weather as we expected to in Scotland, you know, um, uh, we dodged weather most days. One day, we got hit full on with weather. I'm sure we'll come back to that.
But, um, up and over and then into Inverness, uh, there's a very different second part of the hike with just some beautiful vistas and, uh
, really enjoyable really enjoyable walking trail. You know, even the ups and downs weren't bad, uh, compared to what we've seen in other places. Uh, so I really enjoyed that. Um, one of the real highlights, though, is really gonna be, um, the Scottish people again as I this is my third hike in Scotland, uh, having hiked Saint Cuthbert's Way before. Uh, and, really, the Scottish people once again with their hospitality was just exemplary.
It was just fantastic hospitality, great towns, great history, so many different things to go over. Uh, and then also, I hope we get food a little bit. Uh, just throwing it out there. Isle of Isle of Sky down day, probably one of our best bound down days ever so far. It can keep getting better and better.
So, uh, overall, very, very good trail. Very good hike. Lots of fun, and I really enjoyed it…
Yeah. I would, uh, agree with that. I think Fort Augustus to Invermoreston was my my favorite day on the trail. Um, Fort Augustus, if you get the opportunity to spend more time there when you visit, I definitely recommend that. That's a good place to stop.
It's about midway, and it has about the most amenities that you're gonna see on the trail. Um, the towns are a lot smaller, I think, on this side of the the trail too. So the the places we stayed were were much more quaint, very accommodating, beautiful locations. Uh, I enjoyed, uh, meeting so many of those folks as the their open arms and open hospitality and just going above and beyond to make us comfortable, you know, dry our clothes, etcetera, was was really great…
We you know, when we got up into the some of the hills, though, the the bugs the the midges were really terrible. Um, they particularly like me for some reason. Um, so that the downside of that is it when you stop take photos, you don't get to stop very long, and we really rushed through our breaks. Um, that's just something to think about when you're on this trail is, you know, how much time you're gonna need for those breaks and make sure you have a net if you if the bugs really, you know, get after you like they do me. But I thought Fort Augustus was beautiful, and that's just kind of the start, uh, of the of Loch Ness, so it's very beautiful.
Um, we we did get soaked, um, the very one of the very first days, and we you know it's gonna rain when you're there. And we just the way we ended our day waiting for, you know, a bus or a taxi or whatever, you know, we just we just got soaked. Um
, so even with brutal. Even with good gear, um,
you know, you always say there's no bad weather. There's just bad gear. We all had great gear, but if you're standing in the pouring rain for an hour, it's eventually gonna get into your shoes. You know? So, um, just take that into account.
Um, you know, be prepared for for that type of situation, have another pair of socks. Make sure you got a cover for your your pack, whatever you have. Um, make some make sure you have something with a hood on it. They can keep your your head and your ears warm. But, um, I I also agree the Isle of Sky was was something of a of a fairy tale.
Uh, it was beautiful. Highly recommend…spending a day there if you can or more. Um, look it up. The pictures are amazing. And, um, if you have time, check out our site for some of my photos, and they'll I'll try to represent as my best as I can the the magic that was there…
I also wanna just kinda put out a a big shout out to some of the guest houses we had. Um, you know, every everyone was great, but, like, some really exemplary ones. We had, um, the Distant Hills Inn. This was in the town of Spanbridge…um, and the couple there was just absolutely lovely. Um, they were, uh, definitely some of the most hospitable people we've we've ever met, I would say.
Um, really going above and beyond to, um, really make our stay welcome. They had, like, a little, um, you know, honesty bar in their place, uh, wonderful breakfast. The breakfast on these trips, you know, It was one of usually two things. It was either, you know, salmon and eggs, which I loved, or kind of a full Scottish breakfast, and you kinda got to pick between the two on each of our guest house, but, um, that was a a really amazing one. Um
, and, uh, the Forest Lodge run by a really, uh, nice pair of women, um, over in, um, Log and Locks, uh, the day after, was also a really, really, um, wonderful kind of little bed and breakfast stay. But I think kind of, like, our most, like, privileged stay was in Fort Augustus, um, and it was at the the Lovett. Oh, yeah. And that was very much a, uh, it was a very old, uh, like, from the eighteen hundreds hotel, like, big, like, dark wood everywhere…
And it was that was really, really, really cool because, um, we got to have, like, a really, like, probably our fanciest meal on the trail there. Um, you know, they had, like, this, you know, beautiful view over Fort Augustus from it. And so those are just, like, some of the highlights of just kind of places we stayed on the trail, um, because, you know, at the end of the day, um, the state themselves are a big part of the trail. And even though sometimes you're just laying down your head and just getting some rest, Uh, the people, especially, I think, on this trail specifically, really, really went above and beyond for us. Um, and so I just wanted to put some shout outs out there.
I think a big other part of this trail was the history of the trail. Um, maybe not the trail itself. The trail itself is relatively new. Um, they actually put in a new high route, which if you're hiking the trail, a lot of times with your books, you're gonna get the option between the high route and the low route. Really recommend the high route.
Um
, I we didn't find it that much more challenging, actually. Um, you know, there's a couple of of tough ascents, but nothing, um, really technical. But the views of the locks from the high route are really what makes this trail really worth it, Um, especially, I think some of the views of, uh, Loch Ness we were getting, uh, were really, really, really pretty. Um, as Eric was saying, kind of, like, after Fort Augustus, some of those really high views of the lock, um, were were gorgeous…
Um, but for me, I'm always been a history person. I always think of the history of the trails. And there's some, like, really, um, interesting historical moments you kind of walk through, historical paths that you're kind of treading through. Um, any of that kind of I have a few that jump up to my mind, but any kind of, like, historical, like, tidbits or anything like that that kind of, um, come up with your guys' mind? Yeah.
I think that for the historical aspect, what I really enjoyed was, uh, you know, as we move through these different areas, we were worrying about the different clans in the area. Right? So we kept moving through different clan well, territories, but they're not really territories anymore. But, you know, each one of those had their own history, uh, some of which were large clans and others which were were, uh, pretty, you know, smaller clans. And it wasn't until we really had, uh
, our Isle of Skye tour where we had a private guide who who went with us, where I began to understand how these clans interacted with each other, you know, and and the history the history of how the these clans were interacting with the English. Some were on the side of the English, you know, when they were fighting the Scottish and some were not. Um, and it it just started to paint a picture of what this area was like during these times. And then coming into Inverness, you know, where we stayed downtown and just being right in the middle of, you know, what was probably the northernmost city there is the northernmost city in in in Scotland and just absolutely beautiful and just, you know, baked in history. And we walk through these by these churches through these…
um, uh, graveyards. Okay? And just…the the history in there is just simply amazing. And it just the thing about the Scottish highland, I just felt as if the historical aspects just started to seep into you. You know, you kinda walked out of Fort William, which is a little bit more of a touristy town, right, because it sits, you know, for a lot of different reasons at at at the APEC of biking biking paths in the West Highland Way and the great the great Glenway.
And then as you start to walk along the Caledonia Canal and then you, of course, get to Loch Ness and Fort Augustus, and you start to go through some of these other small towns, which were run by different clans. I don't know. It just kind of, like, kept seeping into me, so I kept being more and more excited by it. You know? And then, you know, Inverness is kinda like this capstone of, you know, a center for, um
, for Scottish history. It just it was simply amazing…
Yeah. I'll tag onto that. And, you you know, on the trail itself, you know, we have a lot of history with with the lochs and, you know, of course, Loch Ness and the history of of that mystery, and that that's sort of fun and entertaining. But when we went into Isle Sky, we got into, you know, um, a lot of vistas that, as I said before, were like a fairy tale, but the the silhouettes of some of the castles that we got to see, um, was was the most impressive to me. Eileen Donan, I think that's how we pronounce it, was one right off the side of the road, and it's such a beautiful, um, strategically placed castle, goes out into the loch there, and it's just gorgeous.
And, obviously, there's a lot of people there, so pack your patience. But, um, the castles, um, on that trip were amazing. You get to see a lot of them. We got to stop and then actually get into some of them. Some of them, you know, you have to pay to get in.
Some of you don't. Some of them are…
in disrepair. Some of them are in better shape too. But, uh, I I love the castle aspect. That was my favorite history part…
Yeah. I mean, I think, really, the castles were were something. Like, sometimes the week they get to go, like, right up against, like, some of the bigger castles. Like, um, there's a really famous one, Urquhart, I think you were saying, um, that is right by, um, right by Loch Ness. Um, it has some really famous fizzes over it.
But even when you're hiking, like, you'll see, like, a castle, like, up in the hill somewhere. And, um, some of them are much smaller now because they're in ruins, but, you know, a lot of these used to be castles that were, um, you know, the heart of clans, uh, way back, you know, before, you know, from Great Britain was a thing, and it was still Scotland and England. And even before that, um, when you have, like, the ancient Scottish clans that, like, predate, like, the Scottish kingdom. Um
, and so it's really cool to see all that kind of stuff. I think…one of the things that we have to always because it was a big historical thing that they were talking about there is that this is also the site of the Jacobin, um, revolution or the, you know, the, um, revolt. Um, and, you know, the long and short of it is that, um, there was a Catholic king, um, who was, uh, Scottish, who was, um, kicked out of the throne of England when England and Scotland became, uh, united in favor of a different Protestant, uh, monarch. And generation or two goes back, and his grandson comes over to, like, start, like, a revolution and reclaim the throne. And it was really interesting how we kind of learned about how this was kind of where we were was kind of the site of that, that the Highland culture of Scotland, which is a lot more Gaelic, it's a lot more, uh
, Catholic, it's a lot more, um, or historically Catholic, I would like to say maybe not anymore today. Um, and it's also kind of like when you think about, like, traditional Scotland, you know, like the plaid, the, um, you know, the bagpipes, like, all that kind of stuff. This is kind of like where the the images of that come, that the highland culture is very different from the lowland culture closer to Glasgow. And we learned a lot about, like, you know, the history of, like, those battles. Like, the big battle that kind of decided that on the side of the English, um, was right right around the corner in Inverness.
Um, and also kind of like a lot of the roads we are walking on, um, were actually built by the English to kind of clamp down on kind of like revolutionary sentiment and that kind of stuff, like, around this time. Um, so it's kind of, like, really cool to be walking through also, like, a really big part of British history…
that in the states, we don't really know a lot about. You know, I've had vaguely some vague notions of this before I came, but we learned, um, a lot more about, like, Scottish connection to this, um, why people were supporting this young, um, this young Scottish king who had come over, um, kind of the charisma of him kind of combined with, like, some, you know…
some old connection to the to the old king who had passed who had, you know, left the country, you know, decades ago. Um, so it's really, really interesting. Um, and I think, you know, for me, that was also one of the more interesting parts of the trip was learning all that history too. What are some okay. Let's put it out there.
Besides the midges, because the midges are obviously, um…one of the biggest pains in the trip, and we didn't really get too…too bothered by them except for one day, um, where it was really still day. I think it had probably rained the night before, and, uh, you could not stop or else they just swarmed you. Um, what was was there any specifically, like, difficult day you guys remember or a most challenging day on the trip, um, for this trip? I don't think there was an overall a challenging day. You know?
There are there are some days where you had some ascents, but those usually were just even when they were steep, they were just they weren't very long. You know, you're just kinda getting up onto the Highlands and then back off the Highlands. You know, once you're once you're on the Highlands themselves above the locks, it was pretty it was, you know, pretty much just up and down type stuff. It wasn't bad. I think, as always, we had some days which were a little bit longer, and it always seems that the last two to three miles of that are always a road walk.
You know? And, uh
, it's just typical of of these trails as they begin to connect back into these towns. Right? And, uh, those got a little bit tiring at the end of them…
The the rain, of course, you know, on on the first real day of the hike, that was that was pretty brutal for something, but it wasn't anything really hard. Uh, one of the things I had to learn pretty quickly was the fact that coming off the Turkey, uh, uh, trip, uh, we were carrying way too much water for this one. Um, you know, you're after not having water on a on a trail and it's being very hot, uh, in Scotland because it was a lot cooler than even though it was summer, um, you know, you could get a you could get away with just having just a couple liters of water and not, like, overpacking it. So you kind of got your pack lessened and lessened as you went on and learned that, you know, you're not gonna need a lot of water. So the logistics of it was pretty easy.
It was a pretty easy trail to follow as well. It was very well marked. I don't remember ever really getting lost or misplaced on the trail whatsoever. Uh
, so I don't think it was anything that would point out to being difficult. And I personally, you know, as long as I bring Devin and Eric with me, I don't have very much of a midge problem at all. You know, I just had them walk in front of me, and they're, like, they're, like, midge attractions. But even that one day, they came after me pretty hard too and chewed up my elbows. So I didn't really have a a difficult day on this one, I don't think, which is which is really nice, you know, to have that.
It was every day was a great walk. It was a great hike that day. Some of which were a little longer and some of which had a little bit of these, you know, approaches into town where you're walking through the town and, you know, you're walking on concrete then, so it gets a little hard on your feet, but nothing bad…
Yeah. In regard to the the midges…um, just get some Smidge, um, or some Skin So Soft in Fort William before you take off. You don't worry about getting that stuff and try to pack it. Just pick it up when you go. You're gonna go right through town anyway.
So that's a nice piece of advice. Um, and I and I would concur that it we didn't have really many difficult days. There's a couple long days, but, uh, I also attribute that to Mac's adventures. So that that last trip from Drummond Rocket to Inverness is supposed to be about nineteen or twenty miles, and they split that for us. Um, you know, that that's one of the things that they're good at.
Um, they they allow you to modify the trip in a way if if they can accommodate it to fit your your style. So, um, a ten mile day for us is is just about perfect. So, uh, we met some folks who are gonna do that twenty miler…
um, in one shot, but that also follows the the other longest day from in Morrison to Drummond Rocket. So that's about a fifteen mile or two. So to try to think about a fifteen and a twenty back to back, uh, I I don't know. Uh, I remember feeling pretty tired when I came in into, uh, Invermoreston…
Mhmm. So I I don't know if I would have been super excited about doing a twenty miler that next day. So, again, attribute to Max for helping us, um, because there there really wasn't any…
really strenuous days. I mean, they're long days, of course, um, but, you know, when you have a pint and a hot meal waiting for you, it's sort of motivating to get there. Yeah. I agree. I mean, I think, um, I think I agree with both of you guys.
Um, midges, I think the one with the midges is a problem. We I would also like…
to say that I think we got lucky with the rain and the weather this trip. Um, this is definitely a trip that, you know, Ireland was similar that you really need to be packing good rain gear. Um, we had one day where we were kind of we had to wait for about an hour pretty much in a downpour, uh, before we could kinda catch a ride to, um, our bed and breakfast. And we got pretty soaked through by then, you know. Um, even with some good rain gear, um, it was it was a pretty massive downpour.
We've kind of heard from a lot of the locals that it was particularly bad one that day. Yeah. Yep. Um, but still, like, I think this is something that you need good rain gear on, and I think this would have been a much different hike if we hadn't had some some good weather. Even though we had good weather, like, we probably call it rain every day in some way or form.
Um
, so that's something to keep in mind. A lot of times, there's more of a drizzle, but, like, you know, that's that was definitely a part of it. I also kinda wanna, like, talk about some, like, small highlights on the trail. Um, and one that comes up to me is, um, in our first town out of Fort William, Bridge of Spain, uh, we got to have, uh, dinner at a really cute little restaurant that was a, um, it was an old…train station. And so, like, they actually have, like, the structure of the train station still there.
Um, I forget the name, but it's the only restaurant still in town, so that that kind of narrows it down if you're in the area. Um, run by just, like, a couple women, uh, who are really putting in, like, just round the clock work, um, really good food. But it was just really cool to have the experience of sitting in an old train station, um
, having, um, you know, traditional Scottish food, um, in this really small little, um, Scottish town. So that was one of my, like, little highlights of the trail. Uh, what about you guys…
Well, I'm gonna have to mention it because everybody asks us this one question and if whether or not we saw Nessie or not. Okay? And, uh, and I think that that was kind of a fun thing, you know, all along the lines because I was getting people before I ever left, um, Boone, okay, you know, tell me all sorts of their philosophies of what Nessie was, everything from being, you know, there's art there are monsters in the water to his whale penises or something like that. Was was another one or, you know, all these crazy ideas. And it's been it was interesting as we walked along is to see how, you know, you you have this Loch Ness monster idea.
Okay? And it they've kinda converted over time as, you know, the scientific evidence has really, you know, shown there there's really nothing there for it to eat. There's nothing in Loch Ness at all. Right? And so they kinda converted over to the idea of the legend of the Loch Ness monster, and they kinda built it into the culture of the area because it is the culture of the area.
Right? You know, Nessie is part of this, you know, very remote area, you know, and they're we had one time thought there could be a monster there. And even the people we were with, you know, talking with and, you know, even on the one little boat cruise we took, they kind of shifted the narrative around, and and I think they did a great job of embedding into the culture. And, you know, and also there's other walks we we passed by, you know, which would which are supposedly have their own little creatures walk. I'm gonna mess these up terribly.
Walk walkie. Okay. And, uh
, a walk…
orc wink. What wake? Okay. We get with an o. Uh, that was an interesting one as well.
But that you know, we didn't see the Loch Ness monster, but we experienced the culture of, you know, Loch Ness while we're walking along it and all these little small towns and everything. And these people are very tied to this Loch and this waterway and everything. And you can see why, you know, uh, this this historically, you know, this monster idea came from. Uh, and, uh, it's an interesting story, uh, and I really enjoyed it…
One of the highlights for me…was, uh, obviously the scenery, right? I mean, we're going to Scotland, you know it's gonna be green and beautiful, um, and it was. It was stunning. Uh, I was particularly amazed at the amount of beautiful wildflowers that were blooming, pinks and purples and yellows. It made for very dramatic…
scenery and photos. The color changes have just been awesome. I've really enjoyed going back through my photos. So really, the scenery was outstanding. And if you're a photographer or just appreciate good, uh, water walks, this is this is right up the alley right up your alley, and it and it should be something you consider.
Um, but, Devin, you said something about the food, and I think that that probably is a whole another topic that we should talk about because…not only was the the food outstanding, but it was also, um, part of our day to day, uh, conversations and things we had to be planning for because it's not like every stop on this trail will have food available. So that was a struggle for us to try to, uh, coordinate ahead of time. Some restaurants are open some days during the week. Some of the inns don't provide food at night unless, you know, you give them notice. So one thing I would really suggest is if you're planning your trip here is to figure that piece out ahead of time or as close to ahead of time as you can because, um
, that's the last thing you wanna be, uh, worrying about on this trip. When you get there, you wanna know that you're gonna have food, etcetera. Or if you need to pick something in the town beforehand, um, that's just really good strategy planning that you'll want to take into account for this trip…
Yeah. That's right. There was a couple small towns where we really had to play logistics game. And even the ones that say they had they had small stores, for example, um, uh, I can't remember the name of the town now. Anyways, they had, like, a small store present.
Sometimes those stores close at five o'clock. Right? So if you if you're hiking in, you gotta make sure you can pick up food or make sure an arrangements for it. And getting cab services between the towns was not easy either. We end up taking a bus line back into, uh, Fort Augustus, uh, for our down day and and, uh, going and the bus system is amazing.
But when we ask people about getting cabs, they say, you know, you can wait over an hour to try to get a cab to go back eight miles to where you were before, um, for the cab services. So so I think you're right. The logistics part of it of making sure you plan, we're always looking two to three days ahead, uh
, for food, uh, is really is really a good idea. Well, you know, when you're you're in the bigger town's not a problem, but some of the small towns, like you said, Eric, you know, even if they have a a pub, um, the pub may be closed on a Friday because they need for staffing reasons or whatever reasons for there. So you gotta figure out what you're gonna do to eat that night. Night. But the food was always amazing no matter where we were.
Uh, just excellent. I I yeah. I'll kind of echo that that, um, you know, we actually had kind of a joke from the West Highland Way about, um, the food. I think the food on the Great Glen Way was better than the West Highland Way. Um, and I think the reason for that is that we were in, you know, a lot more like bed and breakfasts in small towns.
So we were kind of getting more home cooked meals…
So, uh, I would also like to say on that, like, I think, you know, you guys make a really good point about, like, checking out for food. Most of the stuff is the towns are what kind of looks like a on a bus route between, um,
Fort William and Inverness. So there is a kinda like that thing too. We actually took the bus route one day, um, back to Fort Augustus and up. So there is, um, the opportunity to take a bus kind of between towns. Cab services seem to be a little hit and miss.
Uh, we had one situation where we thought a cab would be available and the person was actually had been retired for a year. Um, so all these little logistical things, they're part of the trail. Um, look them up ahead of time. Um, it helps a lot, like, they like Eric and and dad were saying…Um, but, I mean, I think I have two more questions for everyone, and one of them really is, um, we've hiked the West Highland Way and we've hiked the Great Glen Way. And I think the West Highland Way…is something that is a lot more famous of a trail.
Um, if you're in the States and you talk about hiking in Scotland, a lot of times people, like, oh, you're hiking the West Highland Way. Um
, and so I think…what what how would you compare the two trails? What recommendations would you have for people who would try to decide between the two trails? Is there anything the Great Glen does better that you would push people towards the Great Glen for? Um, yeah…
I'll go ahead and start. I would of the two trails, I really enjoyed the Great Glenway a lot more, uh, mostly for the historical basis of it. You know? Um, I don't remember. There was some history historical things along the West Highland Way.
West Highland Way was a little bit more rugged, especially around Lac Quement. Um, and its ascent and descents were a little bit more hilly, uh, especially coming into Fort William, as you guys both did. But…I really think that…this the towns were a lot smaller. We we did stay in some small bed and breakfasts along the West Highland Way, but sometimes we were staying at more hotel type, you know, larger facilities because it was the only thing there. Right?
I mean, so you would come out and, for example, King's House, your choice was King's House or King's House. So like you said, we had a much more a much better, uh, uh, interaction with people because we're staying in these very small bed and breakfasts, which were very nice. And you interacted with people. We've met Norwegians. Uh
, we met people from Ireland, uh, sweet people from Sweden, and, of course, lots of Scottish people. So I don't know. I just felt as if the Great Glen Way was a little bit more immersive. Right? There was you you got immersed quicker into Scotland than along the West Highland Way.
Uh, West Highland Way in my mind was also two separate trails, two very, very separate trails. One was the the long lock walk, and then the then you kind of come up in the Highlands. Along the Great Glenway, you also had that a little bit, right, when you came up came up the Caledonia Canal. But most of your time was gonna be spent up in the Highlands, um, with these beautiful views. I don't know.
I think I'd have to go definitely with the Great Glenway as being my preferred. Both are amazing. Both were worth doing, but definitely Great Glen Way…
Yeah. It's it's really hard to differentiate for me. Um, I think the main thing when I think of differences is that I I think the West Highland Way was just more populated…
I wouldn't say the Great Glen is easier, um, but I think it's more approachable. Like I said, the the trails are much wider and much more approachable. We saw a lot more bikes. So, um, less people, more bikes on Great Glen. Uh, more people, obviously, a lot less bikes on West Highland.
Um, food, um, pretty similar. Um, lodging, pretty similar. I I I recommend, if you can, to do both. I I would think, um, I got a few more pictures on the West Highland Way. Um, but, again, I think my personal opinion is I like a less…less populated trail, so I would have to recommend Great Glen.
If you're gonna go one, two, I would try that Great Glen first…
Yeah. I mean, I would echo a lot of that. Um, I think, you know, I think there's two very different trails as everyone's been saying. Um, West Highland I think if you're looking for, like, the pound for pound, like, Scottish Highland views, I think you're gonna get from the West Highland a little bit more. Um, I'm thinking about, like, King's House and, like, some of the mountains towards the latter half of the trail.
Yeah. Um, you really kinda get, like, that kind of, like, really rugged mountainous views that it's even though we're kind of further north in Scotland on the Great Glen, just because of the geology of the area, you get a little bit less of that and you get more of, like, the rolling Highland Hills and that kind of stuff…
Um, so if you're looking for the the views, I still think West Highland has, you know, the better, you know, pound for pound views. That being said, I still think the Great Glen is, um, I think it's really slept on as a trail. I think that, um, you know, again, taking the high routes kinda gives you those big views, especially with the locks, um, that are a big part of the trail. And I would, again, definitely recommend taking the high route. But I also think, um, as Eric was saying, you really feel, like, on the…Great Glen that you kind of, like you you do see bikers and you see, like, some other hikers and stuff, but you don't…feel as if, um, there's, like, a hundred people on the trail with you each day.
Um, and that's really nice to kind of have that…little bit more of a solitary experience, um, of hiking the trail. I think that's something that everyone does like to know, um
, is what piece of advice we can give if they wanna hike the trail themselves. So top of your mind, what's one big piece of advice that we haven't gotten to today? I would recommend learning a little bit about the culture of the area in advance. Like I said, you're gonna get immersed in it pretty quickly, and there's lots of great guidebooks out there that we we use and lots of history up in that area. Um, you know, kind of get into a little bit of the background of some of the clans and what's happening, you know, how this this area fits into the greater picture of the formation of the United Kingdom.
And, uh, I think if you do that, then the stuff you're hearing and seeing, um, would would be really beneficial. So I think that would be something to do in advance. And and also…prepare. Right? You do have long days.
You are still carrying a pack. Uh, so, you know, make sure you're you're you're ready to go. But, uh
, really learn a little bit about the the culture of Scotland…before you go on the trip, and it's gonna be much more enjoyable for you…
I would say…off trail advice would be to try to spend more time…there in country, um, exploring off the trail. And what I mean by that is just if you start in Fort William, it's a beautiful little town. You you're gonna wanna spend a little bit of time there. Uh, Fort Augustus, about halfway through, is a beautiful little town. You're gonna wanna spend some more time there.
And you and you end up in Inverness, which is we've talked about. It's it's beautiful and it's historic, um, and you're gonna wanna spend a little time there. So think think about your schedule, um, try to build in some time for you to actually explore those things off the trail because, um, a lot of memories and a lot of really cool things there that, uh, you'll you'll wanna experience…
Yeah. I mean, I think for me, just, um, this is really a trail that's it's nice to take slow. Um, as Eric was saying, it's a trail that, you know, I don't think it's a trail that rewards people who are trying to just, like, you know, set any kind of speed records on it. Um, it's really a trail that you have time each day, especially, you know, if you're hiking only…ten to twelve miles between towns. Sounds like a lot of miles, but the trail is actually pretty easy.
So you're gonna you're gonna if you're out by nine, we were usually done by three o'clock every day. Um, Take the time to, like, explore Fort Augustus. Take the time to explore Ivernus. Um, there were some castles around and, like, some other cultural sites that I don't think we got the chance to really have the detours to ourselves, and I think they're really worth taking the detours to. There's some old Iron Age hills forts, uh
, nearby that would have been cool to go check out to that we didn't get a chance to. Um, so, yeah, I think this this one especially…is worth taking slow, um, and that would be my advice for it. Well, we have not decided our next trail yet, but, obviously, everyone listening here will be the first to find out. Um, follow us on Instagram. We're trying to do more stuff on Instagram.
We're trying to do more reels. We're trying to do more video content. Same with YouTube. That's at the longways or at the long ways podcast. Um, and falls on Substack at the long ways as well.
We're gonna be putting up a little bit of a guide to the trail soon, a a more of a written guide for hiking, uh, the Great Glen Way, um, that hopefully could be useful for you guys too. I like to put also, Devin put a quick shout out to make sure that, uh, we're gonna start to develop an ask me anything type, uh
, aspect of our of our podcast. So if you have questions or kind of be hiking one of these and you have a question for us, uh, you can go ahead and fire them off to us. We may have a couple little mini podcast sections which talk about, you know, and ask questions, questions that people who are listening submit to us. Um, we're not experts, but we can sure tell you what our experiences was, and sometimes that's the best thing to know. So watch for some more enhancements along our website and our social media channels.
Exactly. Um, we again, this is, uh, our seventh long ways hike. You know, that's at number nine, and…um, we can give you our perspectives and advice on the trail. And, uh, I think for us, you know, Eric did a little bit of this before he came, reading other people's perspectives, learning about where to go, learning about what that's that's almost more important than a guidebook, um
, I found. So if you have any questions, we'll be putting out some social media about this, um, about how to submit your questions to us. Um, but keep an eye out, um, and…I think that's it for today, everyone. So once again, I'm Devon Windelspecht. This is the Longways podcast.
Thank you for listening
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